Tempt yourself with the delicious fare at the new Farmers Market in Primrose Hill, says local resident Rachel Goldsack
Primrose Hill, Saturday morning. In the quiet, well-to-do residential streets an unusual number of muddy cars is descending on Princess Road. In the stillness of the early morning, goods are unloaded, stands set up, and produce laid out. The residents are waking and venturing outside; to collect a newspaper, chat with their local shopkeepers, and, as of last Saturday, visit their new local Farmers’ Market.
Owned and set up by London Farmers’ Markets and managed by local residents, the Primrose Hill Farmers’ Market is long awaited. The village ethos is individuality and community. The shops are run and managed locally and people are keen to cultivate a friendly community environment. Residents campaign to keep the high street unique; a certain chain coffee shop wasn’t wanted here. At the Farmers’ Market, neighbours catch up with each other and the local gossip while doing their shopping. More famous residents mingle unobtrusively with the local jeweller, chiropractor and the school secretary; people heading for their morning coffee and walk, seduced by the smell of cooking sausages, mix and converse with the local neighbours. Primrose Hill on a Saturday morning lives up to its village reputation.
Yellow boards direct visitors towards the primary school playground, the gates acting like magnets. People of all ages converge from both directions, carrying jute bags and wicker baskets. Some on bikes, most on foot. Residents greet each other with cries of “hello darling” and dogs of all sizes are tied up outside the gate (being a school playground, dogs are a health and safety issue and must remain outside). Children race ahead, eager to see their usual playing area transformed into a food inspiration. Stalls are set out facing the centre; tables perfect for feasting on Giggly Pig sausage sandwiches or freshly made soup are set up surrounded by chairs.
In an age when consumers are consistently more aware of the benefits of buying local, seasonal, fresh produce; of cutting down air miles and campaigning for supermarkets to ‘shop local’, the London Farmers’ Markets provide an essential opportunity for both farmer and consumer. The mutual benefits are multiple. Residents can purchase local, seasonal produce without having to travel. The produce is freshly picked, collected or baked – in many cases only that morning.
London Farmers’ Markets operate a strict policy; producers must come from no more than 100 miles of the M25. And the core rule: if they don’t grow it (or pick it, or raise it), they can’t sell it. Even secondary producers must use regional products. The customer can meet the farmer, taste before buying and find out which farming method has been used. In return, the farmer is able to interact directly with his customer. He is able to work out which varieties are more popular and receive a fair price for what he sells. The middleman is cut out and the weekly shop can be achieved with no need for a visit to the supermarket.
Farmer's Markets by reputation, are an expensive place to shop, but at Primrose Hill Farmer's Market I found this didn't have to be the case. On average, the goods were similar or cheaper in price than like-for-like supermarket products. Obviously, one could shop more cheaply in a supermarket buying low-budget food but at what overall price? Shopping at the Farmers’ Market meant I was safe in the knowledge I was purchasing produce made or grown by the person I was paying. The person who could answer all my questions and displayed products in very little packaging. I was more than happy to pay the price the farmers were asking. The oak smoked garlic, which I bought from the Isle of Wight Garlic Company, flavoured both my food and my kitchen. I made vegetable soup served with onion bread made from flour the baker had milled himself and apple pie from fresh Bramley apples. The next morning I feasted on a breakfast of raspberries, apples and fresh yoghurt.
I could have bought oysters and freshly caught sea bass, scaled and gutted for me, in front of me; shitake mushrooms, poachers’ cheese and butter, every variety of seasonal vegetables and flowers. The smell and sight was wonderful; the first squashes and pumpkins were stacked providing amazing splashes of autumnal colour. In December, farmers will sell Christmas trees, in early summer, asparagus. And I’ll be there, rain or shine, talking to the farmers, getting to know what produce to buy when, doing my shopping and enjoying being in Primrose Hill with it’s wonderful, unique, village feel, right here in central London.
Primrose Hill Farmers’ Market, Primrose Hill School, Princess Road, NW1 Every Saturday 9am – 1pm
