Celeb scandal and extortionate prices are what Primrose Hill is mainly known for. And yet it has a certain magic which inspires real loyalty in its residents as Stuart Spicer finds out
Primrose Hill is somewhat renowned for its tendency to captivate those who visit it, and has often been the subject of songs, stories and poems. It was famously the site of the Martian Encampment in H.G. Wells’ War Of The Worlds and has also appeared in the lyrics of songs by the Appleton sisters (from All Saints), Blur and the Red Hot Chili Peppers (the former two also filmed music videos there). The line ‘and the view's so nice’, from the Blur song, is apparently written on the path on the way up to the summit, (though I never saw it myself!). More recently Norman Cook sampled the line ‘I went to see the sun go down on Primrose Hill’, from John and Beverly Martin's song ‘Primrose Hill’, for a track on his last studio album. The hill is also well known as one of London’s more romantic spots, and is frequented by happy couples. But just what is it about the area that plays so poignantly on people’s emotions?
The view across London from the top of the hill itself seems like an obvious starting point, because it really is very beautiful. The park itself has been open to the public since 1842, and interestingly, it used to be called Greenberry Hill. But there is more to the story than the area simply having a nice park with an extensive view of London. After all, impressive as the view from the London Eye is, it somehow fails to stir the same feelings of tranquillity that sitting on top of Primrose Hill on a summer’s day does.
After reaching the park summit, to take in the view, I walked into the built up part of Primrose Hill, which is renowned for being fashionable and containing an abundance of Victorian terraces. While geographically speaking, Primrose Hill is closely surrounded by the London’s hustle and bustle, when you are on Regents Park Road, you could not seem further away from it. The area is an island of friendly exchanges and village charm, where people say ‘Good afternoon’ when they pass each other on the street. It seems it is called Primrose Hill Village for a reason. There really is a community atmosphere, people actually do know each other, and when you are there it suddenly makes you realise how flustered and impersonal the rest of London is.
The village is full of interesting (and expensive) shops, and home to some of the more desirable residences in London. After having a look round the area and browsing some of the local shops, I began to get into conversation with people and decided to find out what they thought of the area themselves. There were three frequently recurring themes of conversation; firstly everyone is very friendly, secondly the area is different because of its quiet, self-contained community atmosphere, and thirdly it is very expensive. What struck me most during the course of these conversations was the willingness people had to stop and chat; it was as if time seemed to move a little slower in Primrose Hill.
Primrose Hill is expensive, and though people were keen to point that out, no one complained about it. Several people I met who work in Primrose Hill chatted enthusiastically about the area, but also said they wouldn’t shop or eat there. Maybe it is the expense of the area that is part of the reason why it is quieter than its surroundings. Of course there may be other factors. One man I spoke to commented on a trickle of disgruntled visitors who come to the area asking where they can find a bank or a fish and chip shop, and seem let down when they find out that they will not find either. Of course, the suggestion that Primrose Hill is different from the rest of London because it is practically the only area with no bank or chippie seems a little far-fetched.
The tranquillity of the village makes it appealing to stars and celebrities, for whom expense is not a problem, and who can often be spotted in the area. Once again, though, celebrity attention in Primrose Hill is very different from other parts of the city. Rather than being hounded, celebrities are welcomed as familiar faces in the community. Towards the end of my short visit, I bought a drink and spoke to a gentleman at a café, who talked about how people such as Gail Porter, Gwen Stefani and Gary from Bush are all treated as normal people (who you might say a quick hello to on the way to the post office). He then got distracted for a brief moment, to say ‘Good evening’ to someone across the street, before going on to talk about how people here take the time to care about one another, and are very supportive of each other in times of difficulty. He beckoned across the street to a restaurant that was due to be closed, which is currently a topic of local concern.
All of this begs the question, ‘Should Primrose Hill be a role model for the rest of London?’. Certainly, other areas of London would benefit from, and should perhaps strive to rekindle, a community spirit. However, London would not be the exciting place it is if everywhere was the same – homogenisation being one of the negative aspects of modern life. As I left Primrose Hill, I felt unusually calm and satisfied. I would like to have stayed a little longer. I also wished I had had the time to go back to the top of the hill to see the sunset, but instead I re-entered the world of stressed commuters and impersonal exchanges. But I also felt charmed that a place like Primrose Hill can still exist in London, and hope that it doesn’t eventually become swallowed up. I look forward to my next visit there, even though (as Herman Melville pointed out) ‘there ain’t any primroses’. I was not aware of any greenberries either, but I doubt if I will lose any sleep over it…
