The need for a creative outlet led Emily Cheetham to make her first bag. She now runs a successful handbag business and designs accessories for Debenhams. marmaLADYa.com finds out how she got started

So how did it all begin?
I didn’t train in handbag design or fashion. I studied Italian and History of Art at university. I worked in radio at the BBC and then moved to a PR agency. It was out of creative frustration that I decided to start life drawing and painting again. Then one Christmas I just happened to make a bag! My mum sews and used to make bags ages ago, little quilted Liberty type things, for the NSPCC in the 80s. And that was it really. It was a little fabric bag with fabric handles and beaded trim. I made another one to improve on the handle. It was a really nice hobby at a time when I wasn’t feeling very creatively fulfilled with my job. And then it just grew. Friends started to commission my bags. And six months later this hobby had taken over and I was selling to friends and friends of friends and I just thought why not give it a go?

Where did you go from there?
I dived in at the deep end – that was August 2002. I spent six months realising what I had taken on. And then over the next year I found my feet. I did various courses like pattern cutting. After a year I was outsourcing some of my production and then after two years all of it. At the same time I was growing the name. In September 2005 I launched my wholesale collection and started selling to shops. Until then it had all been through my website and word of mouth.

And how did winning an award change things?
After winning ‘Best Accessories Design’ at a trade show called Profile last February things just seemed to go up a level. Hobbs asked me to design a small Autumn/Winter collection for them. And then Debenhams approached me to design a men’s accessories collection which was really exciting – bags, wallets, overnight bags and more. The collection, called Cad by Cheet, launches at the end of April.

How would you describe your collection?
I’m continually developing my style. But the key thing about my designs is the detailing – embroidery on a handle, handles which you can wear as a belt. For me it’s all in the detail. That’s how I design. That’s always the starting point. I have a bag called the Jefferson in my current collection which has an unusual horn shaped handle, based on a horn I found in a Chinese market. The bag grew around that fitting. I think my appeal definitely lies in little quirky details – contrast leather, gathered pockets and latticing – which make the bag that bit more special.

Do you have a favourite bag from your collection?
Definitely the Jefferson! It’s so huge, but wearably huge, I use it all the time. A lot of love and labour went into making the handle work which really adds to it for me. And then the Etna bag which is a little frame bag, you snap it shut. It’s got really cute gathered pockets on the front. My granny used to have all these old vanity case on the inside of which were elasticated pockets, so I’ve put them on the outside. And although it looks petite it’s still quite voluminous, perfect for the evening.

Do you think the huge bag trend is going to continue?
I think things are going to be more structured this autumn. Though of course with the way we live, carrying so many things around with us, there’s always going to be a necessity for large bags. I don’t think that’s ever going to be completely ruled out. But my Autumn/Winter collection is definitely more structured and boxlike.

What do your bags cost?
My bags retail from £180 to £230, which is very middle ground compared to what you’d pay for a Mulberry or Gucci. At this price you buy something that’s better made than something that cost £40 from the high street. And of course there’s an element of exclusivity as well. I do think people spend more money on accessories like shoes and bags. Both can really change an outfit. And you want something that’s well made and is going to last. You don’t want to worry about the strap falling off if you overload it.

What was the biggest challenge you faced setting up your own business?
I do think that as the brand has developed, the bigger the challenges I’ve faced. These range from finding the best production to getting seen by the right shops in terms of marketing, press, getting to the right events, getting collections ready in time and so on. And all with rising costs like staff and a office and endeavouring to manage cash flow!

And what do you think of the It bag phenomena?
I think people should try and strive for something a bit more individual. It’s a bit easy to be told what the must-have bag is and the go out and get it. I’d rather walk down the street with a bag that not every other person is going to have.

Visit www.cheetlondon.com to see Emily’s designs and for stockist details.