When it comes to fashion many of us stop at nothing to have this season's latest trends but have we stopped to think about the human footprint of our fast fashion obsession? Louise Jamieson explains why we should...

Ever stopped to think about where your clothes come from? A quick scan of the labels and you’ll probably find it’s China, Bangladesh, Turkey, Russia, Sri Lanka... the clothes in your wardrobe have probably travelled more than you. Before you start to worry about what that means for your carbon footprint (that’s another story!), spare a thought for the people who made them.

All over the world, young women work long hours in unhealthy and sometimes dangerous conditions for very little pay, just so we can have cheap clothes. They work 12-14 hours a day, every day, in hot, cramped factories. The work is monotonous and tiring. In some countries like China, they live at the factory too, sleeping 8 to a room in concrete dormitory blocks. And at the end of the month, there’s barely enough money to support a family, let alone save for the dreams that brought them to the factory in the first place, like being able to send their kids to school or to buy a small home.

You could say that they are the lucky ones, because they have a job and the chance (however small) of a better life. But it’s hard to see what’s lucky about spending 12 hours a day huddled over a sewing machine, not allowed even to go to the loo unless someone gives you permission, shouted at if you make a mistake, all for less than a living wage.

Of course, as savvy shoppers we expect the retailers on our high street to have this sorted out so we can shop with a clean conscience. Many of the big names on the high street have introduced codes of conduct for their suppliers and carry out audits of factories. But their auditors are met with false records and workers who have been coached to lie in interviews. It could be that these audits actually make things worse, by forcing everyone to lie and pushing the problems back under the carpet. What they certainly don’t address is the relentless demand from corporate buyers for lower prices and shorter lead-times, which drives these practices in the first place.

But there is an alternative and one that’s casting off its rather earnest, lentil-eating heritage and getting interesting: ethical fashion. Everyone’s at it, from M&S’s fairtrade T-shirts to Edun, high fashion line from Ali Hewson, wife of rock star Bono. Top Shop has a concession from fair trade pioneers People Tree in its Oxford Street store and Adili brings the cream of the crop together in its on-line store. There are some great organic cotton casuals from Howies and Hug, sexy sustainable lingerie from Enamore, gorgeous silk accessories from Kampuchika. Rumour has it that Jemima Khan is starting an ethical/eco fashion label with model Laura Bailey and even Tesco is said to be planning to stock an eco range from legendary 80s designer Katherine Hamnett. (Ethical fashion must be getting hot when it makes for such strange bedfellows…)

It can all get rather confusing – should we be buying ethical, fair trade, environmentally friendly? Different lines prioritise different issues. But – as long as they are legit – they are all great alternatives to mainstream fashion. So take a stand against throwaway fashion and check it out!

Louise Jamison is founder & director of Kampuchika. marmaLADIES can get 20% off gorgeous silk scarves and bags at www.kampuchika.com until the end of July 2007 with discount code MM07.