Right now, it's 80% likely that the bra you're wearing isn't your correct size. How daft is that, when a properly fitting bra is not only comfortable but truly flattering? It can lift, separate, accentuate, minimize or maximize. So, stop the sagging and squishing and start your quest for the perfect bra now, with expert advice from La Femme Fatale's Katy Bensley...
Finding your Bra Size
There are two important measurements you'll need to know to figure out your correct size, the Band measurement and the Cup measurement. The Band measurement represents the numeric portion of your bra size - the 36 in a 36c. The cup measurement will be used to determine your cup size - the letter C in the size 36c.
Step 1 Measuring your Band size
Measure under your arms, high on your back, around the top of your chest. If this measurement is an even number, then this is your band size. If this measurement is an odd number, then add 1" to determine your band size. Record that number, you'll need it for step 3
Step 2 Measuring your Cup size
While wearing your favourite supportive, comfortable bra, measure loosely around the fullest part of your bust. Record that number, you’ll need it in a sec.
Step 3 Calculating your Bra size
Subtract your band measurement from your cup measurement; each inch represents a cup size. For example: if your band measurement is 34" and your cup measurement is 36", then the difference between these measurements is two inches, and you'd wear a B-cup.
General Tips for Fitting
We spend time choosing the perfect dresses and outfits, so we should be spending time choosing the right bra set. Sizes can slightly differ by lingerie manufacturer, so it’s important to try on your lingerie and find your perfect bra size and also use your own judgement with fit.
A common problem with bras, is that people are wearing bras where the cup size is too small and the bra is too loose around the body. Your Bra cup size relates to the A,B,C,D. DD etc- your breast size and the back/ band size is the 30, 32,34, 36, 38, 40 inch etc part of the bra measurement.
Find yourself a good mirror to look out for the following:
If the fabric is baggy on the cups, the bra cups are too big for your size so go down a cup size. With fabric that creases around the nipple area, try going down a back size for a more snug fit. The centre front of the bra should sit flat against your body, if it doesn't, then your cup size is likely to be too small and you need to try a bigger cup size ie if you have a D cup bra, try a DD size cup.
If you experience itching or red marks around your bra area, the band size of the bra is often too small/tight for you, you might also need to adjust the straps for a better fit. If the band size is too small, go up to the next band size ie from 34” to 36”.
If you see red marks around your straps, then the straps are too tight. You should be able to comfortably fit a finger between your shoulder and strap. Make sure your bra straps are long enough for the bra to be fastened low, at the point where your back narrows. When you try your bra on, make sure the straps are at the longest length and then adjust them accordingly for the perfect fit. Your straps are an important support for the breasts.
Your bra band size is too big if your bra rides up your back and you need to go for a smaller back size. Check in the mirror that your bra band is the same level all the way round.
Your bra band should feel tight and firm, with enough space to insert two fingers under the back band and one under the centre at the front. Your dress size is a good indicator of the band size you need, ie. if you are a size 12, then you are unlikely to need a 36-38 bra band size but most likely a 34 band size or a size 8-10 dress size would normally mean a 30-34 back/band size.
If your breasts spill over your bra cups, then the chances are you need a bigger cup size…try the next one up. Your breasts should sit comfortably in the bra cups and you don't want to see the sides of your breasts bulging outside of the bra cups. With Underwired bras, the underwire should sit directly under the breast, there should be no gap between the breast and the underwire of the bra cup. The underwire should not be digging into the breast, this means it is not a good fit for you.
When you buy a new bra, make sure that it fits properly on the loosest hook, as you might need to tighten it with wear.
Check what your bra silhouette looks like under a fitted T-shirt. This will make sure that you get a smooth line with no bulges.
Do stretch out your arms when you are trying on a bra to see if it feels comfortable and remember changes in weight can also lead to changes in bra size... do you check your bra size regularly?
Katy Bensley is founder of La Femme Fatale and spent two years fitting bras for Playtex.